Day 30

So far, I have not been impressed by the cuisine of Yellowstone and its surrounding environs. I’ve been camping in West Yellowstone, Montana; the other border towns are currently cut off from the park due to the extreme flooding earlier this summer. Both barbecue and breakfast were meh. I did, however, find a coffee shop with excellent turnovers. I tried a ham and cheddar, and then a blackberry rosemary, which was an excellent combination. Once I get home, I think I’ll try whipping up some scones.

Having conquered the Norris Geyser Basin, I turned my focus to the Lower and Midway Geyser Basins twenty-odd miles away. There aren’t as many strange or intricate geothermal formations, but the area does boast incredible hot pots. The turquoise water looks artificially saturated with color, and is apparently even more brilliant during the hotter months of July and August.

I then trotted down the road to perhaps the park’s most famous attraction. Old Faithful is so named due to its consistent eruption cycle—although it’s grown slightly more infrequent and less reliable due to seismic activity. I’ve had fairly good luck so far avoiding crowds, but this is the most popular place in Yellowstone, and the bleachers were full by the time I arrived. The eruption itself was majestic, but the swarms of people and the perimeter established created a feeling of domestication. We have tamed this geyser. At Norris, I felt like a visitor in a wild, strange place, and I much preferred that experience.

My last stop was my most anticipated. I parked at Fairy Falls Trailhead and made my way up a hill overlooking various hot springs and fumaroles. Stepping onto the observation deck, I finally saw Grand Prismatic Spring in most of its glory. It’s not currently as gorgeous as it is in pictures and postcards; you have to go during the hot season, where sunlight and microbial growth really make it sing. It was still a beautifully alien feature upon the desolate basin. Unfortunately, the folks around me were coughing up a storm, and I’d rather not catch Grand Prismatic Coronavirus. Back down the hill and into my car.

I could spend another two weeks here, but I’m heading out tomorrow in search of new places to explore (and better food). Tomorrow promises to be my first long drive in a week, and I’m glad to get back on the highway.