The forecast for the Black Hills was closing in on triple digits, so I got an early jump on the day and left camp at 6:30 for Wind Cave National Park. No cave tours for me today, though—I want to limit my trips underground. A fungus known as White-Nose Syndrome has been eradicating bats across the country, and it’s tracked from cave to cave primarily by visitors’ boots. Out of caution, I’m limiting myself to one cave system per pair of shoes, which means Mammoth Cave and Carlsbad Caverns.
The surface is gorgeous, showing off a serene prairie with occasional red canyon walls. I walked out a while and was coming back when I turned a corner and hello, buffalo! He was on the trail not 25 feet from me, staring me down. Way too close for comfort. I slowly backed away, avoiding eye contact, and tucked myself off the trail while the bison moseyed by. I did not get a picture, as I was more concerned with not dying. Readers, I will only go so far for you.
I took the scenic route out of Wind Cave, stopping momentarily as a buffalo calf crossed the road. Since it was so close, I decided to go to Mount Rushmore. I will admit that, going in, I was not an admirer of the monument. It struck me as a testament to American hubris: giant reliefs of slave-owners, staring over native land. Perhaps it’s unfair for me to view historical figures through a modern moral lens. I do think I can fault the sculptor, Gutzon Borglum, for not cleaning up after himself. The slope of the mountain is awash with chunks of chiseled stone. Like Devils Tower, I preferred the distant views to the park proper, which was more like Sad Disney World with no food and no rides. Children screamed, bad tattoos were on display, and La Croixes were imbibed. Not my favorite stop.
The heat was getting unbearable, so I hid out in the Rapid City library for a few hours (no Cary Grant sightings). From there, I pushed east and made camp on a high ridge in the badlands. It’s a popular spot, but there’s plenty of room for everyone. A bighorn sheep has joined us as the sun sets. It’s a pleasant night.
A brief comment on your Day 15 entry: We are glad that you have been able to enjoy some dark skies and the view of the stars they afford. Nothing like it when you are from the light polluted north east. Ahead of you are many national parks designated as Dark Skies by the International Dark-Sky Association. Among them: Zion, Mesa Verde, Bryce, Arches, Grand Canyon, Arizona Petrified Forest, Joshua Tree. Hope you will be able to continue to enjoy the starry skies. Very thoughtful of you to be careful about not spreading the White Nose Disease. I know it is prevalent in NJ near where we used to live. I think it was at Mammoth Cave that we had to walk through a pool of disinfectant before we went into the cave. We have noticed when we watch the weather every evening and they show a map with temperatures for the entire country that right now you are in one of the hottest places in the country. Best to continue to do things in the early morning and try to be sheltered somehow in the middle of the day. Your campsite on Day 16 looks pleasant, roomy and clean and even some wildlife. I hope it cools down enough overnight that you can sleep well. Love, Grandma
Gee! I never knew that Abraham Lincoln and Teddy Roosevelt owned slaves.
There must be something wrong with our history teachers.
Well, as Cary Grant was known to have said: “This is no good — we’re on top of the monument!”